The ILNA Team
Andrea Brocca's Couture Debut Is a Mathematical Dream
Andrea Brocca is an Italian born Fashion designer based in Dubai. At 16 years of age Andrea has acquired the Guinness world record as the youngest Couturier in the world, previously held by Monsieur Yves Saint Laurent. The Italian/Sri Lankan designer’s off-schedule couture debut collection collection proved that opulence and sustainability can go hand in hand.
“My aesthetic is ominous, romantic and architectural. All of my inspirations come from my multicultural background: my upbringing in the Middle East, as well as my Italian and Sri Lankan heritage.”
His debut couture collection, titled Equilibrium, was inspired by the logarithmic spiral, related to Italian mathematician Fibonacci’s sequence. The collection is a beautiful blend between theatrics, art, precision and sustainability. “Everything is made from dead-stock fabrics such as silk moiré, organza and sustainable leather,” says Brocca. “Instead of drawings, most of my sketchbook is full of equations, which is how I developed my cutting.”
In an exclusive interview with Vogue the designer speaks of his desire to constantly "challenge the norms of pattern cutting, and create art.” Inspired by his upbringing in the Middle East, namely, Dubai, he was constantly drawn to Arabic art based on mathematics. "I developed a technique with curved pleats in continuation, creating a three-dimensional volume out of flat fabrics, so the whole collection is based on spiral cutting, solidified with under-structures.”
“Challenge yourself, develop personal techniques and, ultimately, give it your all to master your craft. I don't think I’ve quite gotten there, yet, but I’m obsessively working on it!”
According to the designer, the leather coat photographed by Abdulla Elmax was the hardest piece to construct. “I extended the logarithmic spiral down the arms to create an abstract structure. Applying such intense construction onto a sleeve made it a super technical and complex piece – I had to refine the pattern about 15 times.”
While this may be Andrea's debut couture collection, what can be rest assured is that the world is his oyster. The industry is buzzing because of his presence and so are some of the biggest celebrities such as Lady Gaga and Rina Sawayama. Andrea is one to watch!